Old Palermo

Start: San Giovanni degli Eremiti.

Finish: Piazza Marina.

Time: 3 to 3 1/3 hours. (Interior visits, of course, will consume far more time.)

Best Time: Daily from 8am to noon and 3 to 6pm when many of the museums and churches are open.

Worst Time: During the lunch doldrums from noon to 3pm and after dark.

Begin your tour by the iron gates protecting the palm-shaded garden surrounding:

1. San Giovanni degli Eremiti--The best known of all the Arabo-Norman monuments of Palermo, San Giovanni, at Via dei Benedettini, is a short block from roaring traffic arteries difficult to navigate. (Tip: To avoid walking through such heavy traffic, many visitors opt to take a taxi directly to the beginning of this walking tour.) Five typically Arab domes reveal the origin of the Moorish craftsmen who constructed this monastery for Roger II in 1132. It honors St. John of the Hermits. The church's tranquil, beautiful gardens are devoted to such species as the pomegranate and rose. The gardens lead to the ruins of the original Benedictine monastery that once stood here, a structure constructed in 581 for Pope Gregory the Great.

After a visit, walk north toward the sound of roaring traffic coming from the nearby Piazza del Pinta. En route to the piazza, you'll pass a wall niche dedicated to Maria Addolorata, which is usually embellished with plants and fresh flowers.

Cross to the opposite side of Piazza del Pinta. From here, you'll see the severely dignified stone archway pierced with formidable doors, leading to:

2. Palazzo dei Normanni--The chief attraction of Palermo, this mammoth palace and artistic treasure was constructed by the Arabs over the ruins of a Roman fort in the 11th century. In time it was expanded and was turned into the royal residence of Roger II, the Norman king. Much of the look of the present palace is from alterations it received from the 16th to the 17th century. The chief attraction inside is Cappella Palatina, a magnificent example of the Arabo-Norman artistic genius.

After a visit to this formidable monument, exit from the compound's stately entrance gate (the same one you entered), walk about 50 paces downhill, then turn left onto Via del Castione. You'll have trouble seeing a street sign at first.

From here, you skirt the Norman Palace's massive and sharply angled foundations. After 2 narrow and claustrophobic blocks, climb the first set of granite steps rising upward from Via del Castione's left side. This will lead you into a verdant garden:

3. Villa Bonanno--Imbued with the scent of jasmine and oleander, this public park separates the rear entrance of the Palazzo dei Normanni from the Duomo compound we'll be visiting soon. Dotting the garden are monuments and effigies erected in honor of such Sicilian patriots as Caetano Bucceri and Pietro Gullo. If it's a hot day, this is an idyllic place to cool off. You can walk through the garden, exiting at its opposite end, which will lead you to:

4. Palazzo Arcivescovile--Lying across the busy Via Bonello, a street of heavy traffic, only a portal survives from the palace constructed here in 1460. The present structure is from the 18th century. Originally the Museo Diocesano was founded here, housing artifacts from the cathedral and other works of art from churches about to be demolished. Since it's been closed for many years, the palace has to be appreciated from its outside.

As a slight detour from our walking tour, stroll down a narrow lane behind Palazzo Arcivescovile to the Oratorio dei SS. Pietro e Paolo. The interior contains stuccoes by Giacomo Serpotta and Domenico Castelli, plus a ceiling fresco by Filippo Tancredi. In repeated visits over the years, we have seen the interior of this oratory only one time. It's been closed otherwise.

On the other side of Palazzo Arcivescovile on Via Bonello is the 16th-century Loggia dell'Incoronazione, with ancient columns and capitals that were incorporated into the present structure. The kings of Sicily used to "display" themselves to their subjects here following a coronation.

After viewing the palace, head east along the major artery, Corso Vittorio Emanuele. The sidewalk at this point becomes very narrow, barely passable, as cars roar by. In spite of the momentary discomfort, the pavement will open within a short time onto a sweeping view of the:

5. Duomo--At Piazza di Cattedrale, right off Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the cathedral of Palermo, dedicated to Our Lady of the Assumption, was built on the site of an early Christian basilica which was later turned into a mosque by Arab rulers. Although launched in the 12th century, the cathedral has seen many architects and much rebuilding over the centuries. The cathedral today is a hodgepodge of styles, its baroque cupola added in the late 18th century.

After a look or a visit, continue east along Corso Vittorio Emanuele on narrow sidewalks until you come to:

6. Biblioteca Centrale della Regione Siciliana--Once a Jesuit college called Collegio Massimo dei Gesuiti, this building today is the home of Palermo's main public library, providing shelter for more than half a million volumes and many ancient manuscripts, including several from the 15th and 16th centuries. A double arcaded courtyard is its architectural centerpiece. It is entered by the portal of the adjacent Chiesa di S. Maria della Grotta.

Continue to head east along Corso Vittorio Emanuele until you come to the intersection of Via SS. Salvatore. If it's open you can duck into the dark, shadowy recesses of:

7. Chiesa SS. Salvatore--Palermo has far greater churches than this, so you may settle for only a look at its facade. Built in 1682 by Paolo Amato, the church was severely damaged during the 1943 Allied air raids but has been restored, enough so that its oval interior is frequently a venue for weddings.

Our eastward trek continues along Corso Vittorio Emanuele to a point where the street widens into a square, the Piazza Bologni. It's time to:

Take A Break--The tables of Liberty Bar, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 350 (tel. 091-328929), spread out onto the square. Here you can have your fill of some excellent espresso or cappuccino, delicious ice cream as only the Italians know how to make it, or even sandwiches or a pizza.

After a refueling stop, we continue east for a short distance until we come to:

8. Chiesa San Giuseppe dei Teatini--Near Quattro Canti , this lavishly decorated church was built by the Theatine congregation. The interior has a dancing baroque spirit, although the facade, not completed until 1844, is along more severe neoclassical lines. The cupola of the church is adorned with majolica tiles. If you go inside (hours are Mon-Sat 8:45-11:15am and 5-7pm or Sun 8:30am-1pm), you'll find a two-aisle nave. Flanking it are towering columns resting under a frescoed ceiling, holding up walls covered with a marble polychrome decoration. The main altar is constructed of semi-precious gems, and the chapels are lavishly frescoed with stucco decoration. The church was designed by Giacomo Besio of Genoa (1612-45), and was the scene of two assemblies called by Giuseppe D'Alessi during the uprising in 1647 against the ruling Spanish viceroys.

At this point of the walking tour, you are in the very heart of Old Palermo at the famous:

9. Quattro Canti (Four Corners)--Corso Vittorio Emanuele intersects with Via Maqueda, the latter street a famous piece of Palermitano civic planning, carved out of the surrounding neighborhood in the 16th century by the Spanish viceroy.

Architecturally, Four Corners is a melting pot of Arabo-Norman magnificence, Palermitan baroque, and the work of craftsmen of the Middle Ages. Each sculpted angle of the Four Corners celebrates seasons, a patron saint, or a Spanish viceroy.

Directly east of this "crossroads" of Palermo lies:

10. Piazza Pretoria--This lovely square with its beautiful but controversial fountain is Palermo's most famous. The fountain was called Fontana della Vergogna, or "fountain of shame," by outraged churchgoers. Originally intended for a Tuscan villa, the fountain is bedecked with nude statues and mythological monsters. This was the first landmark churchgoers saw as they left services at San Giuseppe dei Teatini, the church directly to the west. The eastern end of the square is flanked by Chiesa Santa Catarina. On the south axis stands Palazzo Pretorio, the city hall. Note the plaque on the front of the building commemorating Garibaldi's 1860 triumph, ending the Bourbon reign in Sicily.

Now walk to the southern edge of the Piazza Pretoria and go through the narrow gap between City Hall and the Church of Santa Catarina. In front of you will open a vista over the Piazza Bellini. At its far end rise two of the most distinctive churches in Palermo:

11. Chiesa San Cataldo--Standing side by side with Chiesa della Martorana , this is one of two Norman churches in Palermo. With its rose-colored cupolas, the church was founded in 1154 by Maio da Bari, the despised emir of William I. After having a checkered history -- in the 19th century the church was turned into a post office -- San Cataldo today is the seat of the Knights of the Holy Sepulchre.

Next door to it lies:

12. Chiesa della Martorana--With its handsome Norman bell tower, this is the more intriguing of the two churches. It is the loveliest Greek church remaining in Sicily. It was founded in 1143 by George of Antioch, called Roger II's "Emir of Emirs." Regrettably, the linear symmetry of the original Norman church is today covered by a baroque facade.

After this intense spate of church-going, you'll probably think it's time to:

Take A Break--Pizzeria Bellini, Piazza Bellini 6 (tel. 091-6165691), is set directly at the base of the Church of San Cataldo, with a pleasant outdoor terrace that's shielded from the dust and congestion of the surrounding neighborhood by an evergreen hedge and latticework barrier. This is the kind of cafe where you almost fall into the chairs, then slug back a half liter of liquid refreshment. It doubles as a restaurant, in case you want a full meal, but most participants on this walking tour opt only for gelato, a coffee, or a drink. It's closed Monday.

To resume the tour, retrace your steps along Via Maqueda north to Quatro Canti. Once at these Four Corners, continue walking east along Corso Vittorio Emanuele on the street's right-hand side.

Here the neighborhood grows increasingly battered, commercial, and decrepit as you stroll along. In about 4 minutes, turn right onto Via Alessandro Paternostro, a narrow, medieval-looking street. It's reached 1 short block after Vicolo Madonna del Cassaro.

Walk uphill along Via Alessandro Paternostro through a commercial section of shops. In less than 4 minutes, note the intricately carved Romanesque facade of the:

13. Chiesa San Francesco di Assisi--This is one of our favorite churches in Palermo, thanks to its dignified simplicity and unusual combination of Romanesque and baroque detailing, plus the sense you get that it's still very much involved in the day-to-day life of this ancient parish. First constructed in the 13th century, it was destroyed by Frederick II after he was excommunicated by the pope. A new church was constructed and completed in 1277, although it's seen much alteration over the years. A 1943 Allied bombing didn't help matters either.

From the square directly in front of the church (Piazza di San Francesco d'Assisi), head east on the narrow street on the right-hand side of the church as you face it. The street is not marked. Flanking the south side of the church, walk 1 1/2 short blocks until you reach:

14. Palazzo Mirto--In Old Palermo this is your greatest opportunity to visit a palace from yesterday and see close up how a Sicilian noble family lived. This palace miraculously remains as it was with its original furnishings. Of the many other palaces in the neighborhood, most are closed to the public and still not restored. This palace dates from the 18th century, having been built over earlier structures that went back to the 15th century.

After a visit, walk a few steps to the west into the broad 19th-century vistas of:

15. Piazza Marina--This is the largest square in Palermo. Its most significant architectural monument is Palazzo Steri-Chiaramonte, constructed in 1307 by one of Sicily's most influential noble families. The Chiaramonte patricians, in fact, controlled most of Sicily in the Middle Ages. The palace is built in a Gothic style with Arabo-Norman influences. In the middle of Piazza Marina is the Giardino Garibaldi, a beautiful park where you may want to wind down and relax, enjoying the cooling splashing waters of its central fountain.